Denali Prep for GIRLS!
Since I climbed Denali last year via the West Buttress, it seems as though I've become the go-to girl for McKinley Q&A, especially for other female climbers. Since many of my friends and friends' friends are finding this information useful, I figured I might as well post some of it for the general public.
Feel free to contact me with any questions or comments, especially if you disagree with anything below. I'm by no means an expert and these are just things I've found to work for myself.
Climb on! :)
-----
My size, just so you can compare to yours and choose the right-fitting gear:
height: 5'5" weight: 120-125 lbs
chest: 33" waist: 25" hips: 33"
sleeves: 28.5" neck: 13.5"
Outer Layers:
Pants- synthetic down pants w. full zip sides, Mountain Hardwear Chugach pants, men's size S
(I couldn't find it for sale online...I think they were replaced by the Compressor, which looks very similar)
http://www.mountainhardwear.com/Product.aspx?top=1241&prod=2671&cat=1280&viewAll=False
Down Jacket- Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero parka, men's size S
(I would have taken XS, but they don't make it.)
I'd say 700 fill minimum, 800 is optimal; I tend to get colder faster than the guys.
http://www.mountainhardwear.com/Product.aspx?top=1241&prod=1250&cat=1279&viewAll=False
My bf has a Feathered Friends parka, which is a great brand.
Shell- EMS full suit, men's size S
Pros: great for keeping the cold wind and snow out
Cons: when it got hot, hanging the top half of the suit around my waist was annoying. (I only had to do that on 2 days though...the rest were windy/cold)
Arc'teryx bib pants and jacket are awesome and a more versatile combo:
Alpha SV jacket, women's SM:
http://arcteryx.com/product.aspx?Alpha-SV-Jacket-W
Alpha SV bib, women's SM:
http://arcteryx.com/product.aspx?Alpha-SV-Bib-W
Remember, if you buy a JACKET, get a BIB. If you buy a PARKA, it's okay to only have PANTS. This is so that when you sit down or bend over, your lower back is still protected from the cold!
Going Potty:
#1- I use a Freshette to pee when not fully layerd:
http://www.rei.com/product/407267?vcat=REI_SEARCH
I got mine on Ebay, new for $12
#2- To poop (or pee w. full layers), it's best to have clothes with full zippers and a crotch zipper. With the suits, I had to unzip the bottom hatch AND side zips to more easily pull down the base layers. If you're at camp, it's faster/easier just to go bare butt!
Load Carrying w. Sled:
Rigging- I didn't practice before going to Denali. We figured out our rig while waiting for the plane in Talkeetna. We attached a cordalette with biners from the bottom of the pack to the sled, simply put. It's attached to the pack NOT YOUR HARNESS!! This is so that if you fall in a crevasse, you can release the weight and climb out. (It's a little complicated and hard to explain in words, but I'm sure you can find an experienced person to help you in person.)
Weight Distribution- What I found best, after trial and error, was to distribute the weight about 50/50 between pack and sled. Bulky, lighter items went in the sled; heavy, compact items in the pack. Make sure your sled is balanced, meaning heavier items on the bottom of the sled and everything lying as flat as possible to prevent it from tipping over.
I had about 100-120lbs to carry. At first, I struggled with the sled because I thought carrying less on my back would be better...that made the sled hard to pull, especially through fresh powder. After trying 50/50, I almost felt like it was like carrying a regular heavy pack.
Staying Warm Before Bed:
Feet: When you get in the tent, take off your wet socks right away. Rub them with baby powder and put on a dry pair of socks, then down booties.
Body: Drink warm fluids and eat LOTS of carbs at dinner. Fluids will keep your blood thinner and flowing more easily (important throughout the day, but people forget that it helps during sleep too). Carbs will keep your body digesting/processing food through the night and ultimately keep you warmer while sleeping.
Recommended Reading:
This guy is freakin' awesome for putting this together!
http://www.climber.org/TripReports/2005/1519.html
Feel free to contact me with any questions or comments, especially if you disagree with anything below. I'm by no means an expert and these are just things I've found to work for myself.
Climb on! :)
-----
My size, just so you can compare to yours and choose the right-fitting gear:
height: 5'5" weight: 120-125 lbs
chest: 33" waist: 25" hips: 33"
sleeves: 28.5" neck: 13.5"
Outer Layers:
Pants- synthetic down pants w. full zip sides, Mountain Hardwear Chugach pants, men's size S
(I couldn't find it for sale online...I think they were replaced by the Compressor, which looks very similar)
http://www.mountainhardwear.com/Product.aspx?top=1241&prod=2671&cat=1280&viewAll=False
Down Jacket- Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero parka, men's size S
(I would have taken XS, but they don't make it.)
I'd say 700 fill minimum, 800 is optimal; I tend to get colder faster than the guys.
http://www.mountainhardwear.com/Product.aspx?top=1241&prod=1250&cat=1279&viewAll=False
My bf has a Feathered Friends parka, which is a great brand.
Shell- EMS full suit, men's size S
Pros: great for keeping the cold wind and snow out
Cons: when it got hot, hanging the top half of the suit around my waist was annoying. (I only had to do that on 2 days though...the rest were windy/cold)
Arc'teryx bib pants and jacket are awesome and a more versatile combo:
Alpha SV jacket, women's SM:
http://arcteryx.com/product.aspx?Alpha-SV-Jacket-W
Alpha SV bib, women's SM:
http://arcteryx.com/product.aspx?Alpha-SV-Bib-W
Remember, if you buy a JACKET, get a BIB. If you buy a PARKA, it's okay to only have PANTS. This is so that when you sit down or bend over, your lower back is still protected from the cold!
Going Potty:
#1- I use a Freshette to pee when not fully layerd:
http://www.rei.com/product/407267?vcat=REI_SEARCH
I got mine on Ebay, new for $12
#2- To poop (or pee w. full layers), it's best to have clothes with full zippers and a crotch zipper. With the suits, I had to unzip the bottom hatch AND side zips to more easily pull down the base layers. If you're at camp, it's faster/easier just to go bare butt!
Load Carrying w. Sled:
Rigging- I didn't practice before going to Denali. We figured out our rig while waiting for the plane in Talkeetna. We attached a cordalette with biners from the bottom of the pack to the sled, simply put. It's attached to the pack NOT YOUR HARNESS!! This is so that if you fall in a crevasse, you can release the weight and climb out. (It's a little complicated and hard to explain in words, but I'm sure you can find an experienced person to help you in person.)
Weight Distribution- What I found best, after trial and error, was to distribute the weight about 50/50 between pack and sled. Bulky, lighter items went in the sled; heavy, compact items in the pack. Make sure your sled is balanced, meaning heavier items on the bottom of the sled and everything lying as flat as possible to prevent it from tipping over.
I had about 100-120lbs to carry. At first, I struggled with the sled because I thought carrying less on my back would be better...that made the sled hard to pull, especially through fresh powder. After trying 50/50, I almost felt like it was like carrying a regular heavy pack.
Staying Warm Before Bed:
Feet: When you get in the tent, take off your wet socks right away. Rub them with baby powder and put on a dry pair of socks, then down booties.
Body: Drink warm fluids and eat LOTS of carbs at dinner. Fluids will keep your blood thinner and flowing more easily (important throughout the day, but people forget that it helps during sleep too). Carbs will keep your body digesting/processing food through the night and ultimately keep you warmer while sleeping.
Recommended Reading:
This guy is freakin' awesome for putting this together!
http://www.climber.org/TripReports/2005/1519.html
posted by VeritableReverie | 3/26/2008 10:44:00 AM
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